Day 50
Published:
Today was a big day, the first twenty plus mile day since we hit the snow, ending with a big group at Mile 835.3. The hiking was an interesting mix of technical and very cruisey hiking. Fair warning to my mother (and anybody else faint of heart): there is a paragraph below hidden behind a reveal-me button which you should not read.
We began walking at 3:15 in the moonless pitch-black of another world. After making some serious navigational errors—the highlights are getting cliffed out a quarter mile from the trail (this earned me a bent trekking pole to go with the one I snapped after Whitney) and walking to the middle of a frozen lake before either of us noticed our unstable footing—on the approach to Mather Pass, the climb ended up being technical and fun. After a long arcing bootpack acrosss the entire steep face of the mountain, the tracks suddenly turned straight up the very steep slope—think sixty plus degrees of hard-packed icy snow. After about one hundred feet of this (all by headlamp mind you), Roadrunner and I both noticed a boulder field to our right and decided to try our hands at scrambling instead of painfully jamming our toes into tiny steps chopped in the last few days while risking falling to almost certain death. The scrambling was rarely exposed, fun, and very easy, mostly class two with a few class three moves. Before we knew it we were thirty feet below the cornice which currently forms Mather Pass; a couple swings of my ice axe and I was on the top.
The last picture gives a good sense of the options. Our plan was to meet Frogger and Pipe Bomb at the top for sunrise, so even though they were about forty five minutes behind, we lingered for awhile hoping to see it for ourselves. However, we got up there 5:15, so by 5:40 we were freezing and far less excited about catching the sunrise. This is the best I got.
Don't click this description of the descent if you're my mom
The initial descent was, like the ascent, steep and icy. We were able to navigate to a rocky area where we down climbed a few hundred feet. Here, the slope was even steeper, and my gut told me the safest thing to do was a slow glissade to the next outcropping one hundred feet below. However, Roadrunner was able to dig her spikes in and traverse across towards a different outcropping which looked promising. I wasn’t able to kick steps or cut them adequately with my adze, but I tried to do as she did kicking in my spikes. After two or three steps I slipped and fell with my butt on the slope. After a split second I was able to flip over and self-arrest with my axe, coming to a stop fifty feet above the set of boulders which would have probably killed me had I failed to arrest my fall. Scary stuff, the upside of which is that the adrenaline dump this triggered made me feel high as a kite for the next thirty minutes. Always a silver lining.After the initial descent, it was smooth sailing towards Palisade Lakes, hustling across the massively sun-cupped snow while it remained firm. About five miles from the pass, the trail began descend precipitously and the snow disappeared with it. The next seven miles were a cruise to the bottom alongside the boiling Middle Fork of the King River, returning to sustained desert speeds for the first time since entering the Sierra.
We lunched by the river and decided to knock a few miles off of what will certainly be a long day tomorrow by ascending the first 2,000 feet towards Muir Pass. The valley we walked through was indescribably beautiful—I declared to Pipe Bomb that we were in a crazy place, and he agreed.